Scout your next climb in Idaho
Rip and Tear Peak (10,185') Rick Baugher

View NE to Rip n Tear Peak photo by Rick Baugher 9/12/99. The name is
derived from one of Galena Lodge's more adventurous ski trails in the area.

Rip and Tear Peak

Rip and Tear Peak el 10185' (prom 445') is the Rodney Dangerfield of central Idaho mountains. It gets no respect. From Highway 75 on the Big Wood side of Galena Summit it looks like just another small hump on the crest of the Boulder Mountains. From the Galena Lodge parking lot we start to get suspicious. The triangular south face of gray porphyry is riddled with cliffs and arretes. The top is too pointed to form an aesthetic triangle. However, it is only from the Pole Creek Summit area that Rip and Tear commands our full respect. From the north it looks like a spike driven into the ridge crest. This is a formidably steep mountain with no safe line to the top.
Begin hiking at the Gladiator Creek trailhead el 7700'. At about 9200' leave the trail, and scree climb NE to the Boulder crest. At the 9900' crest further approach is blocked by cliffs. Backtrack about 40' and do an ascending traverse on the south face. Here the nature of the rock becomes apparent. There may be solid holds among the grit, but don't count on it. The final 30' involves crossing a short but fully exposed knife edge attached to a summit block of loose rock. On top I found a 12" solid iron bar lying among the rocks.

Crux of Rip n Tear, photo by Rick Baugher, 9/12/99.

The crux is here, just below the summit. View NW. Going up I elected to 'walk the plank', then strategically pulled enough loose rocks out of the face to make adequate hand and footholds. On the descent I did the crossing au cheval (seat of the pants). Thank goodness- no rips, no tears. Maybe this peak should be called Mt Dangerfield.

View NW to the White Cloud peaks in the Pole Creek Summit area, photo by
Rick Baugher

An airy Rip & Tear summit view NW to the White Cloud peaks in the Pole Creek Summit area. I'd estimate the iron bar dates from early 20th century. No cairn, no register.

Old mining cabin in Gladiator Canyon, photo by Rick Baugher.

Back down in Gladiator Canyon take a short side trail to visit an old mining cabin. This is where the gladiator lived.

All photos from an Aug 26, 2009 outing,
Rick Baugher

Photos and information by Rick Baugher

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