Peak 10,600+ (Gilmore East) - Lemhi Range
Northwest Corner II 5.7 A0 or 5.8
Dean Lords, Travis Michaelis, Aug. '01
This route is easily identified looking south across Meadow Lake as the
right hand skyline with the obvious tower (Cow Tower) of rock at 2/3rds
height on the ridge. The rock quality for the most part is pretty good
with a fair amount of loose debris on the ledges. Protection is good but
bring a variety of camming units.
Ascend talus slopes to the base of the Northwest Corner where one will
start the route in a steep gully just to the left of the ridge. Ascend
easy terrain just left of the ridge crest for several rope lengths, aiming
for the large deep chimney (crux) on the upper reaches of the ridge. Belay
under an overhang on the right side of the crux pitch.
The crux pitch follows a shallow chimney for half the pitch to where one
exits onto a face and climbs the left side of the Missile (a long skinny
detached block in the shape of a missile) crossing the top of it and into
the deep chimney. Belay here or continue up the back of the chimney to
a few overhanging moves (5.7 A0 or 5.8) into an offwidth that widens back
to chimney size after several moves. This chimney is capped with a large
chockstone which one can exit from underneath on the left and emerge on
top of the Cow Tower. Ascend wide cracks above the tower to easier terrain
and a few hundred feet of scrambling to the summit.
Descend via the trail back to Meadow Lake.