Scout your next climb in Idaho
Peak 10,600+ (Gilmore East)  


Peak 10,600+ (Gilmore East) - Lemhi Range
Northwest Corner II 5.7 A0 or 5.8
Dean Lords, Travis Michaelis, Aug. '01

This route is easily identified looking south across Meadow Lake as the right hand skyline with the obvious tower (Cow Tower) of rock at 2/3rds height on the ridge. The rock quality for the most part is pretty good with a fair amount of loose debris on the ledges. Protection is good but bring a variety of camming units.
Ascend talus slopes to the base of the Northwest Corner where one will start the route in a steep gully just to the left of the ridge. Ascend easy terrain just left of the ridge crest for several rope lengths, aiming for the large deep chimney (crux) on the upper reaches of the ridge. Belay under an overhang on the right side of the crux pitch.
The crux pitch follows a shallow chimney for half the pitch to where one exits onto a face and climbs the left side of the Missile (a long skinny detached block in the shape of a missile) crossing the top of it and into the deep chimney. Belay here or continue up the back of the chimney to a few overhanging moves (5.7 A0 or 5.8) into an offwidth that widens back to chimney size after several moves. This chimney is capped with a large chockstone which one can exit from underneath on the left and emerge on top of the Cow Tower. Ascend wide cracks above the tower to easier terrain and a few hundred feet of scrambling to the summit.
Descend via the trail back to Meadow Lake.

Email me your route descriptions and pictures to
© 2003
Email the webmaster