Leatherman Peak
West Pahsimeroi, West ridge
Class 3 Climbed 9/9/03

We accessed Leatherman Peak from Double Spring Pass road off of U.S. 93 and then turned on the Horseheaven pass road. We followed this road until its end and setup camp for the night. This road is very rough in places and has rocks sticking up out of it up to a foot and a half in height, our vehicle is not 4-wheel-drive but has fairly high clearance which is required on this poor road.

The next morning we woke up and walked the trail to Leatherman Pass. This trail is very easy to follow and is an easy hike with great scenery and a large creek (west fork of Pahsimeroi) next to it. We saw bugling elk herds all the way to the pass and the tree cover is good until about one mile from the pass.

Once we reached the top of Leatherman Pass we started the climb of the West ridge of Leatherman Peak. The route begins by climbing through loose talus for about 500 vertical feet. Walk about 200 feet between rock towers and cliffs until you come to your first obstacle. The first obstacle is a 20 foot tall cliff. Climb the easiest way up while checking your hand and foot holds, the rock on this cliff is very loose and fragile and can collapse very easily, this cliff is probably the crux of the climb and may be able to be bypassed on its left (east) side through a gully. Climb a few hundred feet more on loose class 3 rock up to the next cliff, which is only 10 feet tall and much easier than the first cliff. Climb for about 100 feet more on class 2-3 rock and boulders until you reach the summit. There is a huge, metal summit register with many names in it. The register is in need of paper, so anyone heading up should bring a little.

We stayed on the summit for about 5 minutes and left as soon as we heard the first lightning strike and saw many thunder clouds heading our way from the West. We descended on the East ridge and glissaded all the way to the West fork Pahsimeroi trail. Once we got back in the trees it started to downpour heavily. When we reached the trailhead, the mountain we just climbed along with Whitecap Peak were covered with snow. It was a wet drive back.

Earl McAlister