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Bell Mountain 11,612 - Lemhi Range
'Hells Bells' Northwest Face II WI3, M3+
Dean Lords, Brian Wood, June '02
The Northwest Face of Bell Mountain is cut by two large gully systems,
separated by a large steep fin or ridge. Hells Bells ascends the left
gully and the upper section of the center ridge to where it connects with
the North Ridge. This route is very temporary and requires specific spring
conditions to form. On our ascent we found ice between 1to 2½ inches
in thickness.
Approach via Bell Mountain Creek (Basinger Canyon) or Black Creek Canyon
to a point directly below the Northwest Face. Ascend steep snow to the
bottom of the left hand gully, which is at this point a very narrow couloir.
Climb a few hundred feet up this lower portion on moderate steps of thin
ice mixed with some rock scrambling. A small ledge system is reached at
the base of the crux pitch. Ascend a thin flow of water ice and some tricky
mixed climbing (WI 3, M3+) and back into the couloir. Climb this winding
section of couloir for one and a half rope lengths on thin water ice to
where the couloir opens up into a wide bowl. Climb up and right to the
crest of the central ridge. The rest of the climb ascends this ridge and
includes some fun exposed rock climbing to where it connects with the
North Ridge. Follow the North Ridge a few hundred feet to the summit.
Descent is made via the Southwest Gully.
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